Friday, February 18, 2011

Our neighbor, Sabroso, gladly eats any food scraps and loves to have his belly rubbed.




Burros by the ocean.



Sure is nice to be on the west coast.



One of the many interesting birds in our backyard.


Our little home.





Sneaking banana leaves from our backyard.
Naming mystery finally resolved:  Navi wrote each of her family members names out for us.  Each child is given their fathers last name followed by their mothers last name (which is really the childs grandfathers last name), so that the very last name is actually the same as the mothers last name.  Navi (named Navidad, or Christmas, because she was born on Christmas Day) is really:  Ariandad Navidad Cirino Martinez, and yes, her forearm hurt after writing all that.   

Thursday, February 17, 2011

Happy Day of Love and Friendship!

...I just love the way that translates.  That´s what Valentine´s Day is called here.  It´s really just another day to have a party and spend time with both friends and family.  Some people even use it as an excuse to start with tequila at 8:00 in the morning.  The school children all came down to the beach with heart shaped balloons and had a play day.  We surfed, read, and joined another couple from Canada for some shrimp enchiladas that evening, complete with beer.  We continue to love it here and are excited that one of our friends, Jessica, from Durango will be joining us for a week at the end of the month! 

A few people have said that they can´t find Ticla on the map.  It´s true, both Google Map and even the best atlas´s have little to say about the Michoacan coastal communities.  Before heading down here we were actually warned by some other travellers and given a printed copy of a map that a guy from the U.S. created after hiking the entire Michoacan coastline.  Ironically, he found our last blog posting and posted a link to the map!  So here is the map that we have been traveling by (thank you ¨Alpine Lakes¨!):

http://home.comcast.net/~alpinelakes//Coast_of_Michoacan/coast_of_michoacan_map.html

He also shared this fantastic link on the history and religious practices of the area:

http://jg.socialsciences.manchester.ac.uk/Ostula/index.html

Another Amazing Story of Determination...

While sitting on the beach a few days ago an adorable, curly-headed little girl came bounding along the sand, walked directly up to me, put her hands on my knees and asked, ¨What´s your name?¨ in a very adult-like spanish.  I was surprised to learn as our conversation progressed that she is only 4 years old.  When I told her that I was from the United States she simply explained that she was born there and would like to go back when she is older.  Her mother was sitting a little ways away, under a palapa with some other ladies.  They motioned for me to join them, so Stephanie, the precocious 4 year old, and I walked over to sit and chat with the gals sipping cokes in the heat of the day.   They were curious about me, asking a variety of questions, until one by one they had to go, leaving only Stephanie, her mother Diana and myself. 

Diana is a laid back, soft-spoken women with tired eyes.    I was surprised to learn that Stephanie is her only daughter, as most women have at least 3, some as many as 10 in this area.  I was also surprised that she had Stephanie when she was 23, an above average age (15 is the legal age for marrying and many in this area do, and lots have kids as early as 16).  I asked her about having Stephanie in the U.S. and she slowly told me her story, all the while casting loving eyes on her beautiful daughter playing in the sand.

While it has been common throughout our travels in Mexico to meet children who were born in the U.S., it has been less common in these parts.  Many people have shared their stories about illegally crossing the border and they never cease to amaze me.  Generally it costs them an extremely large sum, considering wages here, and often involves a 3-day walk through the desert with no food and very little water.  Some have crossed over crammed in car trunks with four others, praying they won´t be discovered.  Others have even made the journey with children in tow.  While all the stories are intense, none have astounded me as much as Diana´s. 

Essentially, the father of Stephanie didn´t take responsibility, leaving Diana a pregnant, single woman in Mexico and consequentially, a child with a very challenging future.  Determined to create opportunity for her child, Diana scrounged up enough money (presumably relying on family) to pay for the travel to the border and to pay for the coyote (the person who guides illegals across the border). 

By the time she made it there she was 7 months pregnant.  Her first attempt failed, as it was cold and sleeting and she fell during the crossing.  Concerned that the fall had hurt her baby she returned to the Mexico side to have an examination.  Having discovered that the baby was fine, she attemped once more.  This time she successfully completed the 3 day journey across the desert, all while 7 months pregnant, with no food and a small amount of water.  Stephanie was born on American soil and lived her first two years in the states.  I didn´t ask if they were deported and Diana didn´t volunteer that information.  At the end of her story, Diana looked up and asked again, ¨How old are you?¨.  Hearing that I am only 1 year older than her, she sighed, smiled and said, ¨I feel so much older than 27.¨

Diana explained to me that Stephanie is both a child and a friend and goes everywhere with her.  When I asked her if she wanted to have any more children she responded, no, that she wanted to do everything she could to see that this child has a good life.  Stephanie is now learning Nagua, the regional language, Spanish and as much English as she can come into contact with.  The three of us practiced counting in English together and they attempted to share some Nagua with me.   Diana wishes she could send Stephanie to the U.S. for school but it would involve another illegal entry for her and she expressed concern about the present dangers on the border.  Then, casually, she got up, telling Stephanie it was time to go, and said, ¨It was nice to meet you.¨ Stephanie flashed a big smile and waved her hand as she trailed behind her mother, curls bouncing.

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Griffin learns how to throw the fishing net that so many folks use here.  His kind mentor, Angel, looks on.

Sunset down river with surfers coming in from an evening session.

The sink and washing machine.  The left side is at a slant to let water drain.  The cement bottom is rough for scrubbing, but not so rough it tears material.

A roadside shrine to the Virgin de Guadalupe, complete with girl´s braids laid at the base of her feet and many a burning candle.
Griff lounging after a long surf session.

Sunday, February 6, 2011

Ticla for a Month...

After a little bit of hopping around the coast of Michoacan, we have decided to stay in Ticla for the month of February.  It is a lovely community with some fun and challenging waves.  The family that we are renting a palapa from is very sweet and even invited us to attend some festivities at their church on the 3rd.

After an admittedly short google search, I still have no idea what we were celebrating.  It seems that this is the feastday of St. Blase, when Catholics go to mass to recieve the blessing of the throats.   But I´m pretty sure St. Blase wasn´t brought up.  As usual it seemed centered around the Virgin, with some side discussion on Christ (lots of emphasis on the Virgin here).  But the general theme was feasting, celebrating, and taking time out to be together, and we felt honored to be invited.  I even got to try my hand at making tortillas with the ladies (which indeed added a bit of comic relief to everyone´s dining experience).  I bumbled around like some of the younger girls (ages 8) who were learning as well.  It is amazing how fast some of the older women can whip out a hand made tortilla in mere seconds with perfect shape. 

A word on the food here in Ticla... It is delightfully fresh.  Almost all the other places we have been rely on the tortillerias for their tortillas.  In Morelos there were at least 4 to a town of only a couple thousand people.  While they are good, they are produced with a machine, using dry masa (or corn flour) to make the thin small tortillas.  Here, the tortillas are hand made (although many women use a hand press) and most use fresh corn. First it is soaked in water and then ground that very day into masa (there is a mill here to grind corn).  A milpa (or stone hand grinder) may be used to get a finer consistency.  Then a thin layer of lime (collected in the limestone hills around) is tossed on the pan to keep the tortillas from sticking.  The result is a large, thick corn tortilla that opens like a pita.  They are wonderful.

One morning we went out for juevos rancheros and were asked if we wanted eggs from the cook´s chicken (of course!).  Ticla is a country town, with lots of people employed by agriculture (papayas are the other main income, aside from surf tourists).  Chickens roam the streets, pigs are tied up alongside roads, and occasionally a young boy can be spotted hunting iguanas, or climbing coconut trees.  It has a very laid back feel and no one ever seems to be in a hurry.... the perfect place to hang out for a month.